Samuel de Champlain Explores the Great River

     While the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus was a pivotal moment in history, the fact is, it opened the way for many brave men to sale the Atlantic in search of the unknown - and one of the leading characters in the story of North America was Samuel de Champlain. In fact, so key was his role - he is often referred to as the "Father of Canada".

     Samuel de Champlain was born at Brouage, France, a small seaport town in the old province of Saintonge. It was 1567. His father was a sea captain in the French navy but it was his uncle who helped him learn the art of seamanship and navigation as a young boy. Thus, after serving in the army of King Henry IV in 1599, he captained a ship for over two years exploring the West Indies and Mexico.

     At the age of 32, Champlain partnered with a merchant and fur trader named Francis Grave and they were commissioned by the King to establish a fur trading company.

Champlain Portaging Rapids on the Great River
     In 1603, Champlain and Grave made their first trip across the Atlantic to present day Canada.

     Upon his arrival, Champlain left his partner and went exploring. During his exploration he went 12 leagues up the Saguenay and as far up the St Lawrence as Hochelaga - which eventually became Montreal.

          It was during these trips that Champlain began considering the advantages of colonizing Acadia.

     In 1604, he returned to Acadia and established a small settlement at Port Royal - not far from present day Digby Nova Scotia on the shores of the Bay of Fundy.

      Things did not go well. The lack of food, shelter and wood for heat made it very difficult. Many perished during the first harsh winter. The handful that did survive owed a debt of gratitude to the local Indians who offered them a great deal of assistance.

     Champlain returned to France in 1607.

                                                                                                                           Port Royal as it looks today

                                                                                                                  Champlain's Continuing Explorations
     In 1609, Champlain returned as the Lieutenant Governor of New France. He founded Quebec City where some of his original "Habitation" can still be seen in lower Quebec City.

     In 1610, Champlain married Helene Boulle, who was only 12 years old. She stayed in France for ten years after the marriage before she finally moved to Canada.

     Champlain became friends with the Indians and sent Etienne Brule to live with them and learn their language. Brule turned out to be a traitor, leading the English down the St Lawrence in 1629 when Quebec City was captured.

     In 1615, Champlain set out on another expedition, travelling a long way inland to Lake Champlain and beyond.

   Champlain's Astrolabe

     In 1609, Champlain set out to explore the Ottawa River. During this expedition, he identified the mouth of the Gatineau River and the Rideau Falls.

     In his own words..."Having then but two canoes, I was able to take with me four men, among whom was one named Nicolas de Vignau, the most impudent liar that has been seen for a long time...

     Accordingly, our canoes being laden with provisions, with our arms, and with goods with which to make presents to the Indians, I set out on Monday, May 27 from St Helen's Island (Montreal)...

     On the fourth of June we passed near another river (Gatineau) which comes from the north where live tribes called Algonquin....

     Near this river is another (Rideau) coming from the south, and at its mouth there is a wonderful waterfall...

     Here are many small islands which are nothing more than rough steep rocks... At one place the water falls with such force upon a rock that with the lapse of time it has hollowed out a wide deep basin. Herein the water whirls around to such an extent that the Indians call it Asticou, which means "boiler". This waterfall can be heard for more than two leagues away."

     Continuing up river, Champlain undoubtedly came upon the towering bluffs at Big Sand Point where he surely stood looking up river.

     It is known that Champlain went on to overnight on Mohr Island after exploring Big Sand Point, where he noted "the hoardes of mosquitoes that plagued the area".

     Champlain continued moving up river. Forced to portage around the rapids at Gould's Landing (near Cobden) where he and his men fought through rough terrain. It was here he lost his astrolabe.

     The astrolabe remained where it had fallen for 254 years. Eventually a 14-year-old farm boy named Edward Lee found it in 1867 while helping his father clear trees by Green Lake. Captain Cowley, who ran a steamboat on nearby Muskrat Lake, offered Lee ten dollars for the astrolabe. Lee never received the money or saw the astrolabe again. Cowley sold the astrolabe to his employer, R.W. Cassels of Toronto, President of the Ottawa Forwarding Company. He in turn sold it to a New York collector, Samuel Hoffman. The astrolabe was willed to the New York Historical Society in 1942 where it remained until June 1989, when it was bought by the Department of Communications for the Canadian Museum of Civilization.

Champlain's Map
     In 1629 Quebec was captured by the English and Samuel de Champlain was taken to England as a prisoner. When Canada was returned to France in 1633, he returned to his post as Lieutenant-General where he remained until his death in 1635.

     The portolan-style chart (left) on vellum was designed and drawn by Champlain. Many of Champlains maps can be seen at the American Library of Congress or the Canadian National Archives.

     Champlain opened this area for further exploration and the fur trade. Eventually, Bytown was formed at the Rideau Falls... and from that came the people who eventually settled in the Sandhills.